Around 2:30 p.m. on a Friday afternoon, Atsushi Okawara sits at a dining table at Zoto, the new Japanese restaurant at University Town Center where he serves as Executive Chef. He scribbles some notes on a piece of paper. On the table, a sleek book about Japanese ceramics. He’s quiet and focused, untroubled by the bustle of a restaurant ramping up its preparations for its opening, still two hours away. Around 4 p.m., Janet Kim gives a pre-shift talk to her front-of-house team. She goes over the day’s specials, reviews key bookings and firmly but warmly reminds the team what it means to serve with grace. She’s clearly managed meetings like this before. Inside the stylishly understated, earth-toned restaurant where traditional gyotaku prints adorn the walls, the word “pedigree” comes to mind. And rightfully so.
Chef Atsushi earned three Michelin stars, first at Kenzo Restaurant in Napa Valley in 2017, then at Den on Miami Beach in 2022 and 2023. General Manager Janet Kim worked her way through some of the most illustrious restaurants in New York City, including the three-star Masa. The wine and sake list were curated by award-winning Sommelier Benjamin Coutts—who helped Soseki Omakase in Orlando earn a star. Beverage director Daniel Lugo is a true craftsman, similarly handpicked for his experience pairing spirits with Japanese cuisine.
It’s rare to even name this many team members, as though their CVs are more important than the food and drink. But in the case of Zoto, the handpicked all-star cast indicates intent. And that intent is to dazzle.
Selections from the kitchen feature a nice mix of options from land and sea. The zensai (appetizer) selections include some exquisitely executed staples like edamame or agedashi tofu. Curry corn ribs are a fun Japanese twist on savory Mexican street corn. Served in a heavy black stone bowl, the crab fried rice features shredded blue crab, housemade soy sauce, some good old-fashioned butter and garlic, shredded nori paper and a pinch of cilantro microgreens. It’s simple, yes, but wonderfully filling and easy to eat with chopsticks thanks to the perfectly cooked Japanese sticky rice.
The kushiyaki (grilled skewers) section of the menu boasts savory protein selections. It’s the first appearance of A5 wagyu on the menu, the highest rating given to beef for its marbling, color, texture and firmness. A miso cod offers a delightful balance of umami and acid with a miso base and lemon-lime zest. A light soy glaze ups the umami and introduces a hint of sweetness while a dash of nori brings out a whisper of brininess from an otherwise clean, light, unobtrusive cut of fish.
From the sushi bar, diners will see some familiar names, like dynamite, anaconda and red dragon. But here, they’re masterfully interpreted and made by Chef Atsushi with seafood flown in from Japanese markets, then thoughtfully laid out on beautiful ceramic plates. Each is true to the forms, with the subtle flavors of good, clean seafood complemented by the various staples of sushi like cucumber and avocado. The lobster roll is especially satisfying.
The nigiri and sashimi offerings—all varieties of tuna, snapper, uni and roe—even more than the sushi rolls, are the mouthwatering sign of things to come when Zoto unveils its intimate omakase concept right next door. It will feature 15 or so seats around a sushi bar, where Chef Atsushi will deliver the kind of front-row sushi service he parlayed into Michelin stars.
By far the most delightful surprise on the menu was the madai crudo. The light, almost sweet slivers of sea bream come lovingly arranged into what looks like a white rose. Served with paper-thin slices of Asian pear and shiso oil, the true star of the show is the pronounced pop of lemon. That it comes served cold makes it as refreshing as an ice-cold glass of lemonade on a hot day, awakening taste buds and lifting the spirit.
From the bar, Lugo shakes and stirs up some inventive cocktails with cheeky names. The lychee-ni-san-chi, a play on “1, 2, 3, 4” in Japanese, will undoubtedly become a Sarasota favorite. It’s a variation of a lychee martini, with a pink hue that comes from a combination of sakura-infused oka vodka, Lillet rosé and expertly rendered Japanese cherry blossoms. It has a floral flavor profile, not too sweet, with a light, dry bite at the end. This one goes down easy.
The let that man-go is like an elevated, juicy margarita, blending Arette reposado tequila, chili liqueur and mango with a whisper of heat and a togarashi rim. Were it not for the Haku vodka, the so fresh and so clean would rival the madai crudo as the most refreshing item on the menu. It blends the vodka with lemon, honey, cucumber and tonic. The magic ingredient is chareau, an aloe vera-based liqueur with notes of cucumber and spearmint. It may not even need ice to feel cool on the palate.
Ultimately, it’s not just that Zoto has assembled an experienced team. It’s that each of them is truly pushing to make a statement. The artfulness of the menu, the inventiveness of the beverage program, the tightly coordinated service. It’s all an effort to live up to the restaurant’s name, which translates into “the art of gift giving.” And here, every bite is a gift.
